Spanish views from a small town

Last night was St. John's Eve and we had our barbecue and our bonfire. Though the tradition is to roast sardines over the coals, they were a bit on the expensive side, and there were only thawed ones in the supermarket I ran through yesterday morning. I didn't really have the time to look for them elsewhere, so we barbecued some pork ribs and chicken wings on the regular fire in the lareira , the old-fashioned barbecue pit in the barn.  Earlier in the afternoon, my daughter and one of her friends went on the search for herbs and fragrant wildflowers. They are seven that have magical or medicinal properties, or that smell good. The original seven are St. John's wort, lemon verbena, ferns, broom, common mallow, rosemary, and fennel. Since they are not always easy to find, each community (and sometimes each family) has their own list. We pick rosemary (we have a bush), fennel, chamomile (found wild), hydrangea, rose, lemon verbena, and boton de ouro . This last is a local na...

Tonight is supposed to be the most magical night of all the year. The day is looking mysterious enough with the enveloping mist quietly descending over all. But tonight, the Eve of Saint John's Day, witches are supposed to wander and magic is to be harnessed from both fire and water.  The practice of making bonfires is as old as the knowledge of fire. The ancients, conscious of the waxing and waning sun along the year, would light bonfires tonight to exhort the sun not to leave. At winter solstice, the bonfires were to ensure that the sun returned. That was, effectively, when the Light of the World was reborn. At St. John's, the baptism with water marked the maturity of the sun.  While bonfires have always been lit this night for magical and protective purposes, water has always been a part of this special day, too. Sweet-smelling herbs are to be collected today and put into a pail with fresh water. Tomorrow, after standing out all night, everyone should at least wash thei...