Fire and Water
Tonight is supposed to be the most magical night of all the year. The day is looking mysterious enough with the enveloping mist quietly descending over all. But tonight, the Eve of Saint John's Day, witches are supposed to wander and magic is to be harnessed from both fire and water.
The practice of making bonfires is as old as the knowledge of fire. The ancients, conscious of the waxing and waning sun along the year, would light bonfires tonight to exhort the sun not to leave. At winter solstice, the bonfires were to ensure that the sun returned. That was, effectively, when the Light of the World was reborn. At St. John's, the baptism with water marked the maturity of the sun.
While bonfires have always been lit this night for magical and protective purposes, water has always been a part of this special day, too. Sweet-smelling herbs are to be collected today and put into a pail with fresh water. Tomorrow, after standing out all night, everyone should at least wash their faces with it, to ensure their skin is protected from ill. Since some of the herbs used have antiseptic properties, it does help, somewhat, against blemishes. Washing at certain fountains also helped protect against illnesses and the Evil Eye. Especially if it is done at daybreak using the flor de auga, the top skim of water where the rising sun is reflected and where the dew would have collected. In some places, to cure some ills, it is recommended that the sufferer roll in the dewy grass at first light. Or sleep there all night, collecting the dew on his body. Also, collecting water and drinking it from seven fountains is supposed to keep witches away in some areas. And, by the sea, letting nine waves wash over you on this night is supposed to keep you healthy.
But, since in these modern times we have clean running water whenever we need to wash ourselves clean, those rituals recede into the background. What remains at the forefront is the fire. Humans have always been fascinated and horrified by fire. The bonfire is a way of controlling its power and of taking in some of its magic properties. Tonight, when the high flames have died down, and the last flames are licking the coals, that's when it's time to jump over the fire three times, to ensure luck in the coming year. In old times, cattle would also be made to walk through the smoke emanating from the fire, to protect it from witches and the Evil Eye of an envious neighbor.
The typical supper tonight will be sardines roasted over the fire and served, dripping their grease, on pieces of bread. And wine to wash them down. However, since sardines are getting harder to find in the thinning seas, and thereby more expensive, in these latter years pork ribs and sausages grilled over the fire have been gaining popularity. Sardines were always the traditional food at St. John's because that's when they're supposed to be at their best. They taste wonderful when they have plenty of body fat, and that happens around this time of year. That's why the popular saying, "Polo San Xoán, a sardiña molla o pan." (At St. John's, the sardine wets the bread.) It's a reference to the dripping grease.
The tradition is not only Galician. Throughout most of Spain, and especially the Mediterranean, tonight is celebrated by bonfires. And all over Europe, as well, especially in northern Europe. The tradition has also been exported (as always, by emigration) and some areas of Canada and the United States also celebrate Midsummer, as well as some countries of South America, even though it's the winter solstice for them.
There is something magical, watching the flames jump, the smell of smoke and grilling sardines filling the air. It's Midsummer's Eve, and people in these villages have been doing these same rituals since time immemorial. It's a night to feel joined to our ancestors.
The practice of making bonfires is as old as the knowledge of fire. The ancients, conscious of the waxing and waning sun along the year, would light bonfires tonight to exhort the sun not to leave. At winter solstice, the bonfires were to ensure that the sun returned. That was, effectively, when the Light of the World was reborn. At St. John's, the baptism with water marked the maturity of the sun.
While bonfires have always been lit this night for magical and protective purposes, water has always been a part of this special day, too. Sweet-smelling herbs are to be collected today and put into a pail with fresh water. Tomorrow, after standing out all night, everyone should at least wash their faces with it, to ensure their skin is protected from ill. Since some of the herbs used have antiseptic properties, it does help, somewhat, against blemishes. Washing at certain fountains also helped protect against illnesses and the Evil Eye. Especially if it is done at daybreak using the flor de auga, the top skim of water where the rising sun is reflected and where the dew would have collected. In some places, to cure some ills, it is recommended that the sufferer roll in the dewy grass at first light. Or sleep there all night, collecting the dew on his body. Also, collecting water and drinking it from seven fountains is supposed to keep witches away in some areas. And, by the sea, letting nine waves wash over you on this night is supposed to keep you healthy.
But, since in these modern times we have clean running water whenever we need to wash ourselves clean, those rituals recede into the background. What remains at the forefront is the fire. Humans have always been fascinated and horrified by fire. The bonfire is a way of controlling its power and of taking in some of its magic properties. Tonight, when the high flames have died down, and the last flames are licking the coals, that's when it's time to jump over the fire three times, to ensure luck in the coming year. In old times, cattle would also be made to walk through the smoke emanating from the fire, to protect it from witches and the Evil Eye of an envious neighbor.
The typical supper tonight will be sardines roasted over the fire and served, dripping their grease, on pieces of bread. And wine to wash them down. However, since sardines are getting harder to find in the thinning seas, and thereby more expensive, in these latter years pork ribs and sausages grilled over the fire have been gaining popularity. Sardines were always the traditional food at St. John's because that's when they're supposed to be at their best. They taste wonderful when they have plenty of body fat, and that happens around this time of year. That's why the popular saying, "Polo San Xoán, a sardiña molla o pan." (At St. John's, the sardine wets the bread.) It's a reference to the dripping grease.
The tradition is not only Galician. Throughout most of Spain, and especially the Mediterranean, tonight is celebrated by bonfires. And all over Europe, as well, especially in northern Europe. The tradition has also been exported (as always, by emigration) and some areas of Canada and the United States also celebrate Midsummer, as well as some countries of South America, even though it's the winter solstice for them.
There is something magical, watching the flames jump, the smell of smoke and grilling sardines filling the air. It's Midsummer's Eve, and people in these villages have been doing these same rituals since time immemorial. It's a night to feel joined to our ancestors.
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