Strong Backs Needed

Yesterday, Palm Sunday, was the start of Holy Week. Many Spaniards are still religious and will attend Masses and processions this week. The cities in Galicia with the most visited services are Foz, Viveiro, and Ferrol, though almost every city and town has some kind of procession, at least on Good Friday. The most widely known throughout the world are the processions in the cities of Andalucía, especially Sevilla. Some of these are nocturnal, and truly fascinating. One wonders how no fire ever gets started, with all the candles. Most people who join the procession are there because they are practicing Catholics, but every year there are more foreign tourists who simply want to see something they're not used to. 

This year it seems the weather will be sunny and hot in most of Spain. I'm sure many are happy about that. In recent years rain has had processions cancelled, because most of the figures are historically important and their integrity cannot be risked. Whenever a procession has been cancelled many people have cried bitter tears over not being able to carry their beloved saints in the procession. Those who are believers will probably understand the adoration given these figures and the deception of not being able to show it during a religiously important week. Some people belong to cofradías or brotherhoods, which are entrusted with safeguarding and carrying one of the figures. One famous cofrade is Antonio Banderas, who comes every year to his native Málaga to participate with the image of María Santísima de Lágrimas y Favores (Holy Mary of Tears and Favors). During the few months before Holy Week they will train their bodies to carry the images. The cofrades who carry them are called costaleros because they carry the images a cuestas, on their backs. The enormous figures with the float they are built on can weigh from a thousand kilos to almost four thousand kilos. Maybe thirty or forty men are needed to carry one. All must be strong. 

A word of caution. If an American who has never seen images of a Holy Week procession decides to come and see what it's like, he shouldn't be worried by what he sees. The Ku Klux Klan has not opened a branch office in Spain. The penitentes use the familiar hood simply to show that they are sinners who want to expiate their sins. The costume dates back to the Inquisition when sinners who were condemned to the flames had to wear it to their deaths. Those lucky to only lose all their worldly goods and therefore die in the most miserable poverty would be condemned to wear one, though not covering the face, for the rest of their short lives so that whoever came into contact with them would know they were sinners and would know not to help them. The modern costume comes in different colors, mostly red, white or purple. Some penitentes also walk barefoot in the procession. 

Since Holy Week is the Spanish spring break, many who aren't believers and have time off travel on the first vacation of the year. However strong the traditional Holy Week remains, laicism is growing and imposing its rules. Many who actually visit renown processions all over Spain are not believers, they simply want to see a tradition that has pomp and circumstance. But since this year the weather forecast is good, many have already headed to Mediterranean beaches to get a tan and make their friends, who have to wait till summer, envious. I'll just enjoy my week off with a few books waiting to be read.