The Come-Back, Day 29. Good-bye, Shanghai.
If two weeks ago it seemed high summer had come, this week it seems April has returned. The sun is warm, but the wind is not. I'm wearing long pants again, and I think of getting a sweater in the evenings. I may have asked for cooler weather last week, but not this cool. Isn't there a middle ground, somewhere?
I read in the newspaper that a transport institution may have disappeared. At the beginning of the lockdown, many rail lines were suspended. As we start opening up, some are returning, but there is at least one that might not come back, ever. It's the night train from A Coruña and Vigo to Barcelona and back.
Back in the 1920's, it had been an idea that various rail companies were trying to implement. Work started during the Republic, but everything was derailed by the Civil War. Afterward, with mostly slave labor from Franco's prisoners, it was completed, and in 1949, the first train cars made the trip.
Almost from the start, it was baptized with the nickname Shanghai Express. More than anything, because of all the stops it made. It took the steam locomotive around 37 hours to go from A Coruña to Barcelona. The first cars had seats and berths in first class, and regular seats in third. Most people travelled third class, and took food with them to eat along the way, since the restaurant car was reserved for first class. In the 1950's, 60's, and 70's, it was the gateway of many Galicians to Barcelona, and the rest of Europe to look for work.
After that, with air travel fast becoming much more affordable and comfortable, the Shanghai Express was occupied mainly by students and tourists travelling all over Europe with Interrail. Electric locomotives took over from steam, seats became more comfortable, almost reclining as much as a bed, and berths more common. The total time also reduced, as tracks were modified to match the newer train cars, and, of late, it took about fifteen hours to travel from one coast to the other. My brother-in-law took it once, to return to Barcelona, where he lived for a few years. We drove him to the train station at A Coruña and saw him off. There seemed to be a fair number of passengers then.
The devil of the virus did away with travel for some months, and the recuperation will leave some plans in the dust. The Shanghai Express seems to be one of them. History notwithstanding, the Spanish rail service, Renfe, is determined to get rid of all night trains with berths. They don't make enough money. For that matter, they don't make enough money with just about any itinerary that doesn't include high speed. Of later years, people have preferred to fly, especially since Ryanair and others have introduced fares almost as cheap as a train ride, and much faster. Others prefer to drive their own cars.
And so, a piece of our history falls victim to this virus. My particular history probably involves a night train ride to Madrid, but to board a plane that took us to our immigration point of entry, JFK airport, in New York City. So many that we know, though, took the Shanghai Express to new lives in Europe. Neighbors that lived in Paris for years. Others that went on to Switzerland. One or two that continued to Germany. Ours is a history of emigration. That train was one of our purveyors of dreams. Now, it will remain a memory.
Life continues.
I read in the newspaper that a transport institution may have disappeared. At the beginning of the lockdown, many rail lines were suspended. As we start opening up, some are returning, but there is at least one that might not come back, ever. It's the night train from A Coruña and Vigo to Barcelona and back.
Back in the 1920's, it had been an idea that various rail companies were trying to implement. Work started during the Republic, but everything was derailed by the Civil War. Afterward, with mostly slave labor from Franco's prisoners, it was completed, and in 1949, the first train cars made the trip.
Almost from the start, it was baptized with the nickname Shanghai Express. More than anything, because of all the stops it made. It took the steam locomotive around 37 hours to go from A Coruña to Barcelona. The first cars had seats and berths in first class, and regular seats in third. Most people travelled third class, and took food with them to eat along the way, since the restaurant car was reserved for first class. In the 1950's, 60's, and 70's, it was the gateway of many Galicians to Barcelona, and the rest of Europe to look for work.
After that, with air travel fast becoming much more affordable and comfortable, the Shanghai Express was occupied mainly by students and tourists travelling all over Europe with Interrail. Electric locomotives took over from steam, seats became more comfortable, almost reclining as much as a bed, and berths more common. The total time also reduced, as tracks were modified to match the newer train cars, and, of late, it took about fifteen hours to travel from one coast to the other. My brother-in-law took it once, to return to Barcelona, where he lived for a few years. We drove him to the train station at A Coruña and saw him off. There seemed to be a fair number of passengers then.
The devil of the virus did away with travel for some months, and the recuperation will leave some plans in the dust. The Shanghai Express seems to be one of them. History notwithstanding, the Spanish rail service, Renfe, is determined to get rid of all night trains with berths. They don't make enough money. For that matter, they don't make enough money with just about any itinerary that doesn't include high speed. Of later years, people have preferred to fly, especially since Ryanair and others have introduced fares almost as cheap as a train ride, and much faster. Others prefer to drive their own cars.
And so, a piece of our history falls victim to this virus. My particular history probably involves a night train ride to Madrid, but to board a plane that took us to our immigration point of entry, JFK airport, in New York City. So many that we know, though, took the Shanghai Express to new lives in Europe. Neighbors that lived in Paris for years. Others that went on to Switzerland. One or two that continued to Germany. Ours is a history of emigration. That train was one of our purveyors of dreams. Now, it will remain a memory.
Life continues.
How sad. I always mourn the loss of train services, as I much prefer train travel to almost everything else...and a train with such a history too. As I said, very sad. Your photo is great!
ReplyDeleteThanks. It seems that if it doesn't make money, it's not worth it, even if people need it or prefer it.
DeleteThat is so sad. In 2009, I travelled overnight from Barca to Vigo in a sleeper carriage. To wake up to the magnificent Sil Valley scenery was the best train ride I have ever enjoyed. And the breakfast was delicious, too.
ReplyDeleteYes, it's beautiful scenery best enjoyed like that!
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